Trail Tuesdays is my attempt to memorialize my thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail. The A.T. is a long distance hiking trail that runs from Springer Mountain in Georgia, to Mt. Katahdin in Maine- you can read all about the trail here or here. You can read previous parts of Trail Tuesdays here.
I didn’t want to get too comfortable, knowing that the next morning we would be back in the cold and the rain, back on the trail.
Worrying about the next day’s hike had become a bad habit. I would pour over the elevation maps and trail descriptions, the mountains growing larger and the climbs steeper in my mind each time I looked a the maps. I would obsess over the mileage, fearing that I wouldn’t be able to hike as far as we had planned. As usual, the next morning I found that my concerns had been overblown, and my sleepless night, spent fretting over the cold and the rain, was for naught. The morning started out foggy, but soon the sun was shining, and the temperature rose to a balmy fifty degrees.
About halfway through the day I reached the peak of Wayah Bald. It was always a bit disorienting to find development on top of a mountain, and as I emerged from the woods, I was met with the sight of a parking area, toilets, a paved walkway, and a stone lookout tower. Dripping sweat, having just spent over two hours hiking up the side of the mountain, I felt a little defeated seeing a fresh smelling couple strolling hand in hand from their car towards the peak.
When I reached the tower, I dropped my pack and climbed the steps to the top, where I found E and Mike talking to a small woman with two long pig tails. She had breezed by me on the trail earlier while I was taking break with a quick “Everything okay, hon?” I disliked her instantly.
“This is Hippy. She thru-hiked a couple of years ago and is out hiking for a couple of weeks.” E told me through gritted teeth. It seems I wasn’t alone in my opinion of this woman. Apparently, for the fifteen minutes before I arrived Hippy told E and Mike and anyone else who would listen about all the things we were doing wrong on our hike, and how when she thru-hiked “things were just so much better.”
“Fucking know-it-all. I hope we don’t see her again.” I grumbled to E when we finally started hiking again that afternoon.
“You can count on it.”
The first person I saw when I got to the shelter that night was, of course, Hippy, this time foisting her views on a couple in their early sixties. When they finally politely, yet firmly, extracted themselves (Hippy moved seamlessly on to another unsuspecting hiker), the couple introduced themselves as Doc and Virginia Creeper. I loved them instantly. Doc told me that he and Virginia had met only five years earlier at a Appalachian Trail conference, had fallen madly in love, and were recently married. Doc was attempting to thru-hike and Virginia was joining him on several sections of the trail.
That night we were packed into the small shelter like sardines, eight of us in a space designed to sleep six at most, when the wind picked up and hail started to pound the tin roof.
“Oh, this is so not good.” Hippy told us all. “If it starts lightening, we’re total goners. When I thru-hiked, I knew two people who got struck by lightening. So not good.”
“We’ll be alright, there are plenty of tall trees around.” Doc said, giving me a knowing smile.
“I guess….”
Though no one got much sleep that night, we all survived, and over the next two days E, Mike, and I hiked over an endless stream of peaks and valleys, gladly walking further than Hippy, but sadly also Doc and Virginia Creeper. At one point, I hypothesized that the trail builder was a sadist, and asked E “why else would they put the trail right up the side of a fucking mountain, only to go right the fuck back down, and then right the fuck back up another one?” The trail in the Southern part of the Appalachian trail is known for its numerous steep climbs and descents. Instead of following ridge lines, much of the trail in the South crosses ridges, which means hauling yourself, and your pack, up and down tall mountains, all day long.
At the end of the second day, I came across E sitting on a rock, crying. Next to her was a sign for a spur trail, indicating that it was just a 1/10th of a mile to the shelter where we were staying that night.
“I’m exhausted.” She told me through her tears. “Nothings wrong, I just can’t stop crying.” I knew what she meant. At the end of most days, not only was I physically spent, but I was at the bottom emotional reserves, too, leaving little barrier to hold back whatever raw emotion that came bubbling up. It was why we laughed so hard our stomaches hurt at anything remotely funny, but also why the tears were so quick to flow.
“You know what we need?” I said as I helped her back to her feet, “A little mommying.”
The next day we hiked twelve miles in record time to get just that. We reached Fontana Dam before noon that day, where we had arranged to meet my Mom and spend the night at the Fontana Village Resort, which rented rooms at a discount to hikers. It was just what we needed. My Mom, a southern momma through and through, took us to lunch, fussed over our injuries, ferried us to do errands, and told us over and over how proud she was of us.
In the morning, she pulled me aside and asked me if I wanted to go home with her; she was worried about the state of my feet, and my knees, which had mysteriously swelled over night.
“Honey, ya’ll could just come with me for a couple of days and rest and I’ll bring you right back here when you’ve mended.”
“No, I’m okay, I promise.” I said, almost as much to convince myself that it was the truth. While taking a few days off and being cared for sounded wonderful, I knew I needed to keep moving. It was almost a surprise to myself to find that I actually wanted to keep moving. Fontana Dam was entrance to the Smokies, one of the most beautiful parts of the trail. In fact it was a hike in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park with my dad almost ten years prior that had introduced me to the Appalachian Trail, and I was excited to be in familiar territory.
At the entrance to the park stood a ridge runner, keeping a record of the hikers that entered. While Mike, E, and I stood there talking to him, another hiker walked by.
“Trail name?” the ridge runner asked him.
“Turbo.” the hiker, a young guy with longish brown hair and a beard, answered, and kept walking without even glancing in our direction.
E and I rolled our eyes at each other, assuming that the hiker adopted this trail name as a reflection of his attitude about hiking, full speed ahead.
The ridge runner then asked each of us for our trail names, writing them in a notebook. When he got to me, he asked, “Do you have a trail name?”
As I had countless times before to the same question, I answered “Nope, not yet.”
“Well there you go,” he said, “you’ve got a trail name.”
And with that, I became known to the trail community as Not Yet.